sure am glad my engine shots are good for something...

 

I've also been using your engine pics as motivation.. The 91 Vic I bought a few weeks ago is nasty under the hood.. Not quite as bad as your MGM was, but not much better either..

Still on the fence about what I want to do under there anyhow.. This one is replcing my Continental as a tow vehicle.. Quite the adjustment going from a 7.5 to a 5.0.. Trying to decide whether to perk up the 5.0 or just swap to a 5.8.. If I knew I could swap the 351C from my old Torino in there withough too much hassle, there'd be no decision to make

 

Maxfax that picture completely cleared up my questions. Thank you very much!!!!

Okay my car is crying to me because the air conditioner is bad. In fact, I think that the air conditioner is causing the car to over heat a little bit.. don't get me wrong, its not over heating, but when the air conditioner goes on the temperature goes up.

I want to dig right into this project. I don't completely understand how the A/C system works. I know the compressor compresses the gas into a liquid...? And I'm honestly not sure what the accumulator does. My best guess is that it regulates the amount of gas that passes through the system...

I've read this section in my book various times, so any clarification is appreciated. I am going to stat forming a parts list. Taking out the compressor and accumulator seems easy, just pumping the R12 out and getting the new stuff in sounds like a pain. I want to start a parts list for everything I am going to need. I've been told my air conditioning condenser can be kept.

A/C accumulator
A/C compressor
New refrigerant oil I'm sure. Does the compressor and accumulator take the same kind?
Fixed orifice tube - Have no idea what it is, just know it needs to be replaced
Tool number T83L-19990-A to remove the orifice tube
Spring lock coupling tools
Rent a pump from local auto shop

Another question. Once the R12 gets sucked out by the dealer or me (:P) can I still drive the car just without the air conditioning? Also, can I evacuate, pump and check the air conditioning system once the R12 is gone seeing as the accumulator and condensor are being replaced anyways?

Thanks for all the help. You all are awesome!

 

you can definitely drive the car without the AC system being charged. the compressor should not engage except for short bursts and you should leave it off as much as possible (passing by the AC settings to get to the heater settings is ok). just leave the compressor in so the belts will line up right. you can pump the system down yourself IF (and ONLY if) you have the proper connections and a pump that will fit (these are sold in hardware stores, but aren't real cheap). you should be able to keep the compressor if you drain all the oil out of it first and replace the oil with r134a oil. I'm not real sure how to go about doing that though. I've never done that myself. Of course, rebuilt compressors don't cost too terrible much (usually around the price of the pump needed to evacuate the system after you've put it all back together... about $150-200).

refrigerant oil is a single oil used for the entire system. so yes, same kind. orifice tube aka expansion valve aka little plastic stick that goes in the line to make everything work right. When you take everything apart, check the lines, you should be able to find the expansion valve (orifice tube) and remove it. just replace it with a new one (usually less than $5).

as for how the system works... go here and read up. all systems are the same as far as who it works, it's just the size and compressor type that varies for the most part.

 

My accumulator hisses terribly and looks very much rusted out. My compressor look very much old and beat up alike, and makes a rattling noise when turned on. I think both are in need of replacement. I'm pretty sure that the auto shop carries the R134A conversion kits that I need. Thanks for the help and the link, it helped out a lot. I'll keep you posted and let you know how it goes!

 

yeah... you should probably replace them both then.

 

X2 on everything Slymer said..

Since you'll have everything apart, replace your o-rings at all the conections.. You'll probably get some new o-rings with the parts you replace, but replacing the rest can be some cheap insurance.. For some models you can just get a kit (about $7 I think) that has all the replacement o-rings.. Or most autoparts stores will be able to sell you them individually.. Just take your old ones in and have them match them...

Check the rubber hoses out too while you are at it.. IF they look cracked and dry rotted it may not be a bad idea to consider those as well..

 

Max: how would one go about replacing the O-rings in crimp connections. are there special tools required or do you have to replace the lines since there's no compression/nut type fittings?

 

The O-rings are just on the actual screw together and click together connections.. When the lines leak where they are crimped together it's time for new lines...

Some Napa Stores used to sell lengths of rubber A/C line and special clamps (looked like HD double radiator clamps) that woudl allow one to cut the crimps and replace just the rubber parts... This isn't real cost effetive when replacement hose assembiles are readily available, but for something custom, or in the case with my Torino (Lines were no longer available) It was by far cheaper than sending the old ones to be refurbished..


Something to keep in mind for that 460 swap....

 

ah... well if I have to charge my system any more this summer, I'll put in some stop leak with RED die so I can find the leak (hopefully) and then can make a more informed decision. From the looks of things when I did recharge it, the leak was out the low side Schrader valve (oil built up in the cap) and I tightened both of them up when I did the charge so that won't be an issue. Hoping I don't need to worry about it. I am considering some aux fans to help cool the radiator/condenser in crappy traffic.